The Magic Is In the Movement: Understanding Chronometer Watches First used in the early 1700's, chronometers are today's most accurate timepieces thanks to a rigorous movement testing process.

The Magic Is In The Movement: Understanding Chronometer Watches

By: Brianna Thompson



Imagine if Odysseus had been in possession of a Black Bay 58 GMT… do you think it would have taken him as many years to get home to Ithaca? It’s a COSC and METAS-certified chronometer with a 24-hour bidirectional rotating bezel, so he could have employed celestial navigation and tracked longitude to stay on course, instead of just going with his gut and hoping for the best. Don’t get me wrong—he was purported to be a pretty clever guy, but obviously some mistakes were made.


A gold marine chronometer with four subdials
Marine Chronometer photo by Royal Museums Greenwich

 The reason why I bring up this fictional example is to highlight the utility of chronometers and why they’ve only grown in prevalence since their invention in 1714. The marine chronometer came about in 1735 to provide sailors with more accurate measurement of longitude for improved navigation and safety. The 20th century gave rise to smaller, more advanced chronometers, which became very in-demand among explorers, researchers, armed forces, and collectors alike. From the 1920’s onward, chronometers used at sea would be set by radio time signals, which made updates during travel far easier. Unfortunately for some time after, daily rating was still necessary to calculate true GMT.


Testing machinery in a blue and red lit room
Testing facility photo courtesy of TUDOR

With the importance of chronometry at an all-time high, different countries created observatories to test their watches. Swiss timepieces go through a rigorous multi-day certification process by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres aka COSC to receive the chronometer label—some brands go even further with METAS certification to achieve master chronometer status. Not all of the watches created worked for a day-to-day basis, so competition has become more parallel to market needs. That being said, only about 3% of watches are able to pass testing.

Watch components flat laid on a white background
Stock image

Gravity, temperature shifts, and friction are just some of the forces of nature that affect a watch’s ability to tell time accurately. Today, watchmakers utilize the highest quality internal components—alloys, silicone hairsprings, polished pivots, and free-sprung balances—to build exceptional movements that can withstand these forces. Needless to say, these are highly precise and reliable tools that exemplify the pinnacle of luxury craftsmanship.

Although GPS systems have made chronometers relatively unnecessary as navigational tools, it is always good to have a reliable backup, and there is none better than the most accurate of timepieces. Below, we’ve hand-picked our favorite chronometers across a variety of brands and price points. Browse online and try-on in-store at William Barthman Jeweler.
 
A stainless steel watch on a bracelet with a two-tone black and burgundy bezel with a black dial. Gold details decorate the bezel, dial and hands. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
On an orange background with shadows, a stainless steel watch tilts to the left. It has a smooth bezel, orange dial, and black appliques. Tudor Monarch
On a white man's wrist, a stainless steel watch with a dark blue dial and 2 sub-dials. Appliques are white, and bezel is smooth. IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic
A stainless steel Frederique Constant watch with a dark green dial and stick markers, on a man's wrist Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC
On a dark marble counter, a stainless steel and rose gold watch with mother of pearl dial and gold stick markers All Breitling Collections (including Chronomat)